Simone Rocha’s Autumn/Winter ’22 show on Sunday evening was every bit as enchanting as her audiences had hoped. Even for those watching online, like myself, there was something magically captivating about the collection that made it hard to look away from the screen.

Rocha wanted to capture the ‘melancholy beauty’ of the Irish fairytale, Children of Lir (the original inspiration for the Swan Lake ballet). In the ancient story, a new wife turns her four stepchildren into swans, jealous of her husband’s attention towards them. Aodh, Fionnula, Fiachra and Conn are bewitched into spending 900 years swimming over lakes. And yet, as swans, they can still sing, and so use their melodies to communicate the truth of their metamorphoses to their father.

“The models glide around in a constantly flowing circle, as if they are real swans floating on water”

It is clear from the opening of Rocha’s AW22 show that this is a different kind of collection. It tells a story through the tiny details of every garment, with motifs from the ancient fairytale interwoven with the brand’s own elements that are so adored by Rocha’s fans: feminine and floaty gauze fabrics, puffy sleeves, crystal bags and sparkling jewels.

There is a deep seriousness to be felt throughout the show, achieved by the moving classical music and darkness of the setting at the Lincoln’s Inn in London. An almost religious atmosphere is created, adding to the sense of otherworldliness that accompanies the designs. The space itself becomes the lake that Lir’s children were destined to swim endlessly; the models glide around in a constantly flowing circle, as if they are real swans floating on water.

The stage, then, is perfectly set for the clothes themselves, which mystically and magically shine out through the dark surrounding space. Black and white contrasts make up many of the pieces, suggesting the seriousness to this story, while several deep blue pieces stand out beautifully. In particular, the rich blue velvet dresses are a visual delight, evoking the texture of a swan’s feather whilst suggesting the sadness behind the tale and the hue of deep water.

Outfits are carefully built up through tiers of fabric in contrasting textures and colours, sparkling with intricate details and accessorising motifs. The pearl and crystal accessories that Rocha is known for now appear as jewels around the models’ eyes, as well as studded onto over-the-knee socks and around knitted balaclavas, as if they are water droplets still glistening on a swan’s silky wings. Patent leather is another recurring material, adding to the wet look. Meanwhile, occasional glimpses of gingham seem to be a reminder of the children lost behind their swan facades.

“It feels as if Rocha is letting us into a secret”

In this way, the clothes play on the boundaries between human and swan, showing the metamorphosis as it occurs before our very eyes. Wings burst out in Look 12, brilliant against the otherwise all-black outfit. Large white ruffles in other looks, particularly in the skirts, also allude to a swan’s wings. Even the pointed-toe shoes have been designed to evoke beaks. In Look 27, two swans are embroidered onto the weightless fabric, from which a feather hangs down, their necks creating the heart shape that is a running motif throughout the collection. Other models wear ballerina-trainers, which give echoes of Swan Lake and present the feminine power behind Rocha’s designs. She uncompromisingly creates her work through the female gaze, highlighting different kinds of femininity and imbuing typically feminine motifs with her own subtle meanings.

I particularly love the heart which appears on the back of Look 22, revealed only when the model has turned away. It feels as if Rocha is letting us into a secret, revealing the love that the tale encapsulates, just as the children must secretly reveal the truth through songs for their father.

Finally, red embellishments suddenly burst out as the last few models enter the stage, emphasising that love underpins the tale, but also the jealousy, anger, betrayal and heartbreak that come with it.

We watch a fairytale of metamorphosis unfurl through Rocha’s designs, which create an atmosphere that is ethereal, moving and serious — there is indeed something melancholy about the performance, particularly when it is combined with the setting and music. But, undoubtedly, the AW22 collection entrances its audience with each step that the models take, with each spotlight that lights the stage and with each note in the background’s swan song.