As the weather gets colder, the days get shorter, and the leaves begin to fall, the season of the witch is just beginning. Witch-inspired fashion is nothing new: some variation of what is now described as ‘whimsigothic’ has been popular in trend cycles since at least the 1970s. But what actually is it that makes so many of us draw inspiration from what is typically introduced to us as a historically shunned figure?

The term ‘whimsigothic’ is a contemporary one, coined by Evan Collins in 2020 to describe a style characterised by rich gothic colour schemes, celestial iconography, and nature-based inspiration. Whimsigothic outfits frequently feature fabrics such as velvet and corduroy, styled in flowy, boho silhouettes. Classic 70s motifs, like flared sleeves and paisley print, are also a key tenant of this style. Characters from 90s witch programmes — think Casual Magic and Buffy the Vampire Slayer — are often cited as style inspiration, alongside figures like Stevie Nicks.

“Incorporating whimsical elements into our day-to-day outfits can become a childlike attempt at escapism”

It’s no coincidence that this style has gained online popularity alongside other whimsical aesthetics like ‘fairycore’ and ‘mermaidcore’. In a world where there is much that we want to to forget, incorporating whimsical elements into our day-to-day outfits can become a childlike attempt at escapism. Indeed, the inspiration for these styles often comes from media aimed at children (take Tinkerbell and fairycore, for instance, or H₂O: Just Add Water for its mermaid-inspired counterpart).

That said, whimsigothic fashion is more than just 90s nostalgia mediated through the lens of contemporary microtrends, like some of its more niche contemporaries. The allure of the witchy outfit comes in part from the fact that it is attainable: although some interpretations of the aesthetic lean towards more elaborate outfits, the key elements of whimsigothic fashion are often wardrobe basics like black dresses or turtleneck tops.

Equally, whimsigothic outfits are practical and adaptable. Online fashion is increasingly divorced from outfits that actually fit into our daily lives. The whimsigothic rejects this; even the most simple outfit can read as whimsigothic with the incorporation of subtly celestial jewellery or rich colour schemes. These pieces are just as easy to find as they are practical. For those who want to play around with whimsical fashion at its most eclectic, ‘statement’ pieces like velvet midi skirts or flare-sleeve tops are easy to find second-hand. For more gently whimsigothic-adjacent outfits, most of us need look no further than the clothes we already own.

Unlike most social media-based fashion that tends to breed uniformity, with a sea of influencers promoting the same small pool of “essentials”, whimsigothic inspiration lends itself to different interpretations. Whimsigothic outfits can just as equally be monochromatic black ones as they can those incorporating a range of colours and patterns. They also often involve the romanticisation of pieces like jumpers and cardigans that we wear out of necessity anyway. The whimsigothic is particularly connected to autumn because of this; rather than seeing the shortening days and lower temperatures as something to lament, the celebration of knitwear and layering encourages us to embrace otherwise gloomy weather.

The allure of the witchy, however, is more than just practical escapism. Fashion has traditionally centred on extenuating or hiding the female body on the basis of the main insecurities of the day. Whimsigothic fashion instead focuses on celebrating the witch, someone who was often no more than a woman who didn’t wish to have children, or marry a man. The witch is a powerful figure, not because of how she looks, but because of her supernatural abilities. To dress like a witch is to embrace a celebration of womanhood that has often been ostracised.

This is not to say witchy fashion is perfect; it, like any online fashion trend, has its dark side. It can still encourage us to overconsume, or feel that we need to change something about our appearance in order to lead an unattainable lifestyle. But, at its best, the whimsigothic rejects these ideas, encouraging us to imbue our outfits with a little childlike imagination.