In recent years, more emphasis has been placed upon sustainability than ever before, with the rise of young political activists, like Greta Thunberg, and sustainable fashion influencers, like Mia Regan, proving that even the smallest steps can make a difference. Sharing shocking statistics revealing that it takes 2,700 litres of water to make a cotton shirt, and 9,982 litres to produce a single pair of jeans, the UN launched the #ActNow Fashion Challenge to spotlight how both industry and individuals can help improve fashion’s environmental impact. One of the best ways to reduce the fashion industry’s carbon footprint is by shopping second-hand. Awareness of this has led to the rise of online platforms, with Depop skyrocketing in popularity in 2020, despite being launched in 2011. This originally provided hope for consumers, simultaneously acting as an accessible, affordable, and efficient method of purchasing clothes, whilst providing opportunities to rebrand one’s fashion sense.

“Depop allowed the more impressionable among us (like myself) to establish a new wardrobe at bargain prices”

Depop peaked during the pandemic, feeding every shopaholic’s needs without them even needing to leave the house. Boasting an average monthly user count of 2.45 million users in July 2020, Depop excelled, giving new life to an abundance of items while stimulating $60 million in revenue across the globe. The benefits of Depop soon began to multiply (just like the size of an average user’s wardrobe) allowing individuals to sell their items in the hope of a new side hustle. Depop also benefited consumers, allowing the more impressionable among us (like myself) to establish a new wardrobe at bargain prices. This once-accessible market sparked the much-needed change from the classic skinny jeans (bonus points if they were high-rise Jonis from Topshop) to ultra-baggy jeans, proving an enduring staple in every style guru’s wardrobe. However, as the platform’s popularity skyrocketed, so did the prices, leaving us bargain-hunters hopeless.

In the early days, if we take a typical pair of baggy jeans as an example, you would have been able to grab a bargain, with clothes prices averaging around £12. However, this is no longer the case. With the emergence of Depop re-sellers, prices were hoicked up massively. Including postage fees and the 10% seller charge, the price rise made the app very inaccessible. Ultimately, Depop functioned completely counterintuitively to its original aims of 'making second-hand second nature', instead making sustainability a second thought and promoting the rise in cheaper fast fashion sites like Shein and PLT. Depop’s uncompetitive prices posed a dramatic obstacle to the UN’s sustainability goals.

Given the cost of living, it proved difficult to justify spending over £50 on one item of clothing (even when using girl math!) - especially second-hand, when cheap fast fashion options presented a viable alternative at a fraction of the price. As Depop’s user base grew, it began to promote clothing trends seen across social media, with ‘vintage’ aesthetics becoming hugely popular. The popularity of these ‘Y2K’ items was reflected in their prices, as they became greatly inflated rather than affordable. This surge has been deemed an online ‘gentrification’, driving once a popular app into the ground, and leaving fashionistas lost for a viable sustainable alternative. Alas! What could we do? Luckily, our problems weren’t permanent; a new challenger was primed to enter the scene.

“Depop has isolated the older generation (and by older, I mean over the ripe age of just 25!) from genuinely selling their preloved pieces”

Panic over… here comes the rise of Vinted! Although founded before Depop in 2008, Vinted took some time to rise to prominence, but it has now overtaken Depop in the rankings. With Vinted’s primary aim of helping to 'mitigate the harm of the fashion industry', it has grown to a platform where people see themselves as addicted to the app. Vinted has enabled affordable prices and easy communications on an efficient interface; what’s more appealing than quick postage, with items taking only 3 days to arrive? Providing a guaranteed smooth and effortless shopping experience that Depop could only dream of, Vinted’s sales jumped by 61% in 2023 to £513m. 

You may wonder what caused this downfall, and the answer lies in both audience and advertising. Depop’s original target audience was Gen Z, with an overwhelming 90% of its active users being under 26. Although this once helped generate success, it has now played a huge role in its downfall. With adverts focused primarily on the younger generation, Depop has isolated other audiences like the older generation (and by older, I mean over the ripe age of just 26!) from genuinely selling their preloved pieces. Aware of this failure, Vinted was able to capitalise, placing less emphasis on aesthetic listings and curated albums, and more upon accessibility, marketing towards a more inclusive target audience and doubling down on authentic preloved (rather than overpriced and over-curated) items, hence avoiding over-saturated markets. Although the experience of using Vinted may be seen as more of a ‘dig’ than a ‘shop’, the price points have proven important in shifting users to the app. Without delving too deeply into the economics, it’s become apparent that these two apps cannot co-exist within the same market… so is it true to argue Vinted has come out on top?

Now we have established the reasons for Depop’s downfall and the rise and dominance of Vinted, what do you prioritise when shopping online? Do you mind the deeper hunt on Vinted to grab gold, or would you fork out more money for a more curated shopping experience on Depop?