The black polo neck, was once a universal sign of sophistication, effortless chic and modernism. Now, it is sadly reduced to pretentiousness, inspiring images of tech moguls like Steve Jobs, or that one photo of The Rock (you know the one I mean…). One is prompted to ask, how did this happen? Why is it such a tragedy? And how can we restore its former glory through dressing that makes an impact?

To understand the gravity of the black polo neck, it’s crucial that we understand its journey to the pop culture icon it is today. First developed in the late 19th century for polo players (hence the name), it began life as a utilitarian piece. Yet as the 20th century reared her modernist head, the top was donned by a plethora of creatives and overall ‘artsy-types’. Reaching its peak after the conclusion of WWII, it became the uniform of anti-conventionality, its modernist silhouette and almost existentialist simplicity charmed those associated with counter-cultural movements in Paris. This association created an air of moody, European nonchalance that grasped the US as it became a staple in the fashion of the Beatnik movement. Pioneered by those who “just think differently from others” (take that how you will). For context, the Beatnik movement was a counter-cultural movement based in the United States, rejecting materialism and encompassing all elements of the arts. Audrey Hepburn also aided in this curation of meaning with her 1957 film ‘Funny Face’ set in Paris. She sports a black polo neck throughout the film, pairing it with black, fitted ¾ length trousers and a bright lip, all to portray an unintentional glamour.

“The piece was a protest against the exhibitionist excess of other fashions, providing a perfect canvas to let their own talents shine”

Eventually every artsy-type was wearing the famous top, from Andy Warhol to Lou Reed to Bob Dylan. The piece was a protest against the exhibitionist excess of other fashions, providing a perfect canvas to let their own talents shine. As the 70’s rolled around, the polo neck style never lost traction, a spectrum of bright garish colours and patterns were employed to keep the style relevant amongst a sea of oranges and browns. Yet how did this chic symbol of resistance become something of pretension and feigned profoundness? The most notable facilitator of this change is the iconic entrepreneur Steve Jobs, who was rarely seen without his Issey Miyake staple, inspiring a wave of unsettling copycat businesspeople.

So today, how can we restore the black polo neck to its former glory and evoke chic sophistication without looking like that one guy at a jazz club who likes to think he knows everything? Simply put, change up your classic jeans and a t-shirt or hoodie outfit by adding a black polo neck and your favourite jewellery. Vibrant pieces can be showcased against the plain background, and more subtle gold or silver necklaces create a streamlined look. Bright belts also add interest (bonus points for an interesting buckle).Or, for a more 60s look, why not add a silk neckerchief — garish patterns are much easier to manage with a simple base. I personally will never tire of suggesting hats to lean into the stereotypically French vibe with a colourful beret. You can even try matching it to your shoes or scarf for a clean, coordinated look. For those wishing to escape the repetition of trainers, colourful Mary Janes or ballet flats add interest, as well as making any look with jeans that little bit smarter.

If jeans aren’t your style or you’re looking to diversify, pair the polo neck with a skirt. Miniskirts come in a huge range of colours and patterns, and with the tight-fitting polo neck, more structured fabrics give an interesting silhouette. For another vintage throwback add coloured or patterned tights and pair with dolly shoes or boots. In addition, the emerging trend of the A-line maxi skirt goes perfectly with the polo neck, to really echo that sleek modernist outline.

“The polo neck is clearly unanimous with curating outfits that look just that bit different”

For evening, one image easily comes to mind for me. The famous photograph of Marlene Dietrich in the 30s, as she smugly struts towards the camera wearing the iconic black polo neck layered under a loose-fitting suit — radiating an unapologetic androgyny. The power of the co-ord is undisputed, yet layered over a polo neck is a surefire way to impress and also conquer the tricky business casual. The look can be accessorised with heels, Doc Marten style boots and most importantly the classic brogue to truly channel a look that is confident and sure to stand out.

The polo neck is clearly unanimous with curating outfits that look just that bit different. To elevate it further however, or if black just really isn’t your colour, try one of the hundreds of colourways available; all previous outfits still stand, simply tweak the accessories to complement your colour of choice and you’ll never go wrong. So, for a look that stands out from the crowd, emanates chic intellectuality, and that also keeps you warm, try the black polo neck in your next outfit.