The 1970s is, in my opinion, the decade of diversity: in fabrics, music, and trends, as well as intense social change. From the tail end of the ‘flower power’ movement of the 60s, to the equally groovy heyday of Disco towards the end of the decade, fashion saw itself more fragmented than ever, as movements branched out to create distinctly unique subcultures. So, what can we learn from this explosion of individuality? And which pieces should we revive today to turn up the ‘funk’ in our lives?

“The decade began enshrouded by the psychedelic, flowing patterns of the 1960s hippie movement”

The decade began enshrouded by the psychedelic, flowing patterns of the 1960s hippie movement. Hippie originated on the college campuses of San Francisco, emerging partly as a response to the Vietnam war. This culture championed love: free love, ‘make love not war’, the summer of love (you get the picture), as well as alternative spiritual values inspired by Hinduism and Buddhism. However, religion wasn’t the only thing adopted from Asia; in fact, the tie-dye staples of the hippie movement can be traced back over 5000 years ago to Rajasthan, as well as the delicate floral embroideries mirroring Kantha textile techniques. The clothing of the era was designed to be expressive and non-constricting – much like the liberated lifestyles that hippies advocated for. My favourite elements of the hippie movement have to be headbands, natural fabrics, hairstyles that are free and thriving, culturally inspired jewellery (authentically sourced), and free-flowing fabrics.

A lesser known sub-culture popular in the early 1970s is the ever-whimsical medieval resurgence. Although suits of armour and serf-esque hessian tunics may spring to mind, the medieval resurgence took much from the psychedelic influences of the previous decade. Fairytale-like outfits were donned, as empire waists and bell sleeves mimicked the tailoring of a time gone by, with the use of robust fabrics like suede and velvet creating a luxurious feel. As well as this, rich colours like teals, purples and oranges partnered with folk inspired patterns to create dreamy visions that oozed fantasy. From this style I’d love to see a resurgence of capes, shawls and headdresses, as well as delicate peasant blouses and waistcoats.

Next, a total U-turn to the abrasive, unapologetic impact of the Punk revolution, rearing its mohawked head in the UK around the mid-70s in the wake of the economic hardships of the early 70s. Central to their ideology was the spirit of DIY. Clothes were safety pinned, spray painted, screen printed and distressed as a rebellion against the status quo. Key motifs of the era were leather, fetish wear, studs, spikes, chains, and military boots – creating a harsh appearance. Without a doubt, the most poignant elements of the movement for me are the slept-in makeup looks, the raw, unfiltered dressing that would be sure to put an avid ‘clean-girl’ fan into a coma, and the sheer impact of the liberty spike hairdo.

“Not only did clothing have to stand out and look good under nightclub lights, but also be comfortable to groove in”

On the other hand, let me shift focus to the supposed mortal enemy of Punk: Disco. A majority American import, Disco flourished in the mid 1970s in nightclubs across New York, catering primarily to African Americans, the LGBTQ+ community, and Latinos. As a music-based subculture, Disco was popularised through shows such as Soul Train, as dancers donned three-piece suits, bell-bottom trousers, wrap dresses and more. The fashions of this movement emerged from a necessity for functionality. Not only did the clothing have to stand out and look good under nightclub lights, but also be comfortable to groove in. This meant that sequins, rhinestones, glitter and satin were core to the Disco vibe. The vibrancy of the era was encapsulated not just in the dynamic silhouettes of the outfits, but burnt oranges and funky purples were essential to accompany the upbeat expressiveness of the music. For me, the undisputed treasure of the Disco style is the dagger collar shirt – for men, women or whoever wants to feel a bit groovier. Most important, however, was the functionality of clothes you can really ‘get down’ in, something the classic clubbing bandage dress may never achieve.

Finally, it would be absurd to gloss over the androgynous phenomenon of the glam rock bombshell in the early 70s, spearheaded by artists such as T.Rex and David Bowie. Glam rock was the epitome of ‘anything goes’, an amalgamation of glitter, animal print, 6’’ platform boots, top hats, and whatever else one could find in the dressing up box. Take Marc Bolan of T.Rex for example, whose performance of ‘Hot Love’ in 1971 saw him appear as a metallic star-sailor in a maritime inspired co-ord. This subculture was most famous for its blurring of gender dichotomy, with men wearing elaborate makeup and sporting voluminous curls and feather boas. My takeaways from the era have to be statement rings, men’s co-ords, audacious makeup looks, and the iconic jumpsuit.

And so, after this crash course in just some of the fabulous fashion movements of the 1970s, it’s clear to see the many key looks we can steal. Yet I feel it is our duty to borrow from not just the eclectic styles, but also the key ideologies of these movements: the activism of the hippies, the whimsy of the medieval revival, the rebellion of Punk, the inclusion of Disco, and the genderless freedom of Glam rock.