The Rainbow Café is one of a kind. A firm favourite among the vegans and vegetarians of Cambridge, the underground venue received press attention in December when the owners refused to accept the new five-pound notes due to the tallow used in the manufacturing process.

For me, this associates them with eco-warriors who live in an idyllic microcosm of peace, love and vegetables far removed from the real world. And in some ways, the café is just that. To enter, you have to squeeze down a little passage directly opposite Kings’, heading towards what appears to be a dead end, until you spot the alcohol licence above a side door. Even then, there’s a clandestine feel about the descent into the café-restaurant which, when coupled with the dimmed lighting and tables dotted into nooks and crannies, feels vaguely illegal. Perhaps it’s a remnant of the past, a sort of strategic defensive position against venison-eating private schoolboys violently opposed to any form of vegetarianism.

It seems somehow fitting that this little café is slightly rough around the edges. The walls are painted in pale shades of green and yellow, decorated with fairy lights and the occasional mirror to give the illusion of space and allow you to check for spinach in your teeth. If you look carefully, you might be able to spot the faint outlines of dolphins on the ceiling – a cheerful feature that reminded me of playrooms and children’s bedrooms.

One thing that really surprised me about the café was the sheer amount of ‘cheese’ on the menu. I had been expecting soups, stews and vegetable curries, bulked out with beans and tofu, but was not prepared for creamy vegan pasta bakes and chunky filled burritos. In a way, it makes sense: when eating out, vegans don’t want to eat dishes they could make at home (and most vegans I know are excellent cooks). Lasagne made with vegan cheese is therefore a natural choice in a restaurant, in the same way that I might pick duck, crab or a slow-roasted joint of meat.

“This evokes eco-warriors who live in an idyllic microcosm of peace, love and vegetables far removed from the real world. And in some ways, the café is just that”

The toasted almonds scattered on top of the lasagne won high praise from my vegan friend and her non-vegan grandmother, but they commented that it could have included more pasta layers. The other two meat-eaters in the group thoroughly enjoyed a Thai green curry, which had just the right amount of heat (until I bit down on a slice of fresh chilli, that is), and a pasta-mushroom dish served in a cheesy white wine sauce. The portions are generous and extremely filling: a bit expensive for student lunch, but there are cheaper soups and sandwiches available if you want something lighter.

Of course, we couldn’t leave without trying the desserts – a treat that is often not available in everyday Buttery fare, to the dismay of many vegans. They have a wide range of desserts for all tastes and dietary preferences, ranging from fruity gluten-free crumbles to rich vegan cheesecakes, as well as their famous carrot cake. My peanut butter and chocolate cheesecake tasted suitably decadent, so much so that I barely noticed the lack of ‘real’ dairy product.

Bread and Rutter: Stickybeaks

The Rainbow Café is a real gem. It’s right in the centre of town and is open until 10pm most evenings, serving a variety of vegan beers and wines so that even the most eco-conscious among you can enjoy a drink. But even then, it wins out on dessert alone. There are only so many packets of Oreos you can buy before the cashier at Sainsbury’s begins to think you have a serious addiction. And let’s be honest: biscuits are no substitute for dessert. Desserts here are on the expensive side, but in a town where desserts for vegans and vegetarians often consist of a rather limp-looking fruit salad, it’s worth paying the extra pound or two