It can’t be easy running a restaurant at Cambridge Leisure. Before Five Guys replaced Pizza Hut there were no less than 3 serving Italian food, alongside businesses advertising quality Mexican, Portuguese, Chinese and Indian meals to those visiting The Light cinema, bowling alley or Junction music venue.

Bella Italia has chosen to take on its competition with a complete rebrand – its logo, its décor, even its entire menu. Upon entering, you could see that it was now much brighter, with a large group of visible and energised staff.

The menus boasted all of the old classics, but also a brand new selection of pizzas, calzones, pastas, grills and deserts. We ordered a serving of calamari and a bowl of Swedish meatballs for the starter.

The meatballs were as good as we remember them, and we found the calamari tenderly cooked, rounded off by the light garlic mayonnaise and lack of grease. The service was always quick and friendly, a special effort for the recent re-opening.

It wasn’t a long wait for our mains, a spicy Diavola calzone and classic lasagne. The calzone had just the right level of heat, part of a much wider selection that had become available with the new menu. The lasagne, of course, wasn’t new, but a new recipe and generous helping made the difference, avoiding being too rich or too light.

Throughout the evening the staff were quick to replenish drinks, and by the time of the dessert – with lighter heads courtesy of the delicate house Sauvignon Blanc – we decided to top the meal off with two new ultimate Godfather sundaes: the Big Tony, with vanilla, chocolate sauce and brownie pieces, and the Mean Joe, with strawberry, vanilla, and meringue. Though Tony's brownie was unfortunately a little stale, the combination of vanilla and chocolate gelatos, chocolate sauce, cream and toppings made for a suitably indulgent finish. Joe's meringue was crisp and light, a welcoming contrast to the thick, rich strawberry sauce.

It won’t set the culinary world alight, but nor is it supposed to. With good quality food for the price, friendly service and a more welcoming ambiance, Bella Italia remains a solidly dependable, fun, family-friendly option.